Quantcast
Channel: An Uptown Dandy
Viewing all 200 articles
Browse latest View live

The American Premiere of I Colori Di Antonio

$
0
0
The fellows at The Armoury were kind enough to extend an invitation to the US premiere of the documentary I Colori Di Antonio, a film produced by The Armoury in collaboration with director Gianluca Magliarotti. The documentary tells the story of Antonio Liverano, an Italian tailor of some renown (as well as a mentor of The Armoury).

The premiere will take place at The School if Visual Arts, and the screening will be followed by a question and answer session moderated by G. Bruce Boyer and featuring the director and Mr. Liverano.

The screening is one of several events planned to celebrate the grand opening of The Armoury's Tribeca location. I would encourage anyone with an interest in men's tailoring to attend. You can purchase tickets to the event here.








Vintage Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren on eBay: The Windsor

$
0
0


As I've sworn off collecting shoes that are not in my size, this seemed like a perfect opportunity to highlight a rare of example of the Windsor model made by Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren. Shoes featuring this design rarely come up for sale on eBay - if anything, you'll usually see pairs made by Edward Green on the 201 or 202 last. If I had to guess, I would date these to the mid-to-late 1980s or early-1990s, when Edward Green and Crockett & Jones actually shared a factory, making it quite easy for the companies to have also shared the broguing patterns necessary to make these wonderful shoes.

This pair will make some lucky size 8 feet very happy! You can find a link to the auction here.

A Wonderful Evening with Antonio's Colors

$
0
0


Notes from a screening: As I mentioned last week (here), the gentlemen of The Armoury screened their new documentary on Antonio Liverano on Thursday, April 3rd, at SVA's Beatrice Theatre. It is a wonderful film (from director Gianluca Migliarotti) which lovingly displays the character and talent of a true master tailor.

G. Bruce Boyer led a discussion afterwards with Mr. Migliarotti, Mr. Liverano, and Armoury founder Mark Cho - some of the comments were quite interesting. Mr. Migliarotti was an entertaining translator (for Mr. Liverano) and an energetic panelist (despite just arriving and dealing with jet lag).
He discussed his penchant for Attolini suits and offered an amusing anecdote regarding the tailors of that house and their steadfast dedication to the ventless jacket.

From left to right: G. Bruce Boyer, Gianluca Migliarotti,
Antonio Liverano, and Mark Cho of The Armoury.

Mr. Liverano proved to be a man of few words (a quality I admire), but he (and Mr. Migliarotti) offered an interesting response to a  question regarding the ethnic diversity of his apprentices (I believe they were from Japan, Korea, and Lithuania, if I recall correctly). Essentially, younger Italians are not particularly interested in learning the craft and dedicating themselves to the years of sacrifice necessary to be successful at it. Interestingly, this outlook mirrors the concerns that other artisans have voiced in interviews with An Uptown Dandy. Riccardo Bestetti, the Italian bespoke shoe-maker (you can read that interview here), echoed a similar sentiment, as did Chay Cooper of Wildsmith when discussing the Northampton shoemaking industry in England. While the dearth of eager young Italians in these industries is certainly a shame, with films such as this one being produced to honor the craftsmanship and skill of artisans such as Mr. Liverano, one can only hope that such a trend can be reversed in time.

Overall, a lovingly created, wonderful film - highly recommended to anyone with an interest in bespoke tailoring and an appreciation for quality craftsmanship.

Meyer the Hatter - A New Orleans Institution

$
0
0



I was down in New Orleans last week for the French Quarter Festival, but kept an eye out for anything that would catch my eye, sartorially speaking. Just off of Canal Street, on the "American" side, was Meyer the Hatter, a wonderful shop that appeared to have just about any style of hat that you might be interested in, from straw boaters to fedoras to apple jacks.

Founded in 1894, the stock seemed to run the gamut quality-wise. The brands on display was a who's who of prominent names in American headwear, including Stetson, Biltmore, and Dobbs, among others.

Unfortunately, there were a lot of panamas on display, but having recently purchased a panama Borsalino for spring and summer, I didn't pull the trigger on anything. While I didn't see any Borsalino models in stock, there was a wonderful vintage Borsalino ad in the front right window display (the classic rendering of a clam opening to reveal a Borsalino instead of an oyster). In any event, if you happen to be passing through New Orleans anytime soon, you should definitely make time to check out Meyer the Hatter.


Classic Men's Style As Inspiration - An Interview with CBPI Magazine

$
0
0

Charles Wong, the lifestyle andmenswear editor at CBPI Magazine, has written some wonderful pieces on heritage brands and men's style, so I was pleasantly surprised to discover that he had purchased a copy of The Best Dressed Man In The Room from The Armoury in Hong Kong. Here, then, is my interview with Charles - a wide-ranging discussion on the return of the three-piece peaked lapel suit, elegant ne'er do wells, and my rather unseemly obsession with Edward Green's Windsor, among other things  . . .


http://www.cbpmag.com/classic-mens-style-inspiration-interview-with-the-best-dressed-man-in-the-room-author-daniele-d-flores-new-york/

In the Den of the Dandy

$
0
0



Tucking myself behind the classic red and white checkered tablecloth at lunch a few days ago, I thought about the dual personalities of a city that is constantly changing yet still exudes a certain sense of pride over such venerable institutions as of the 21 Club, the last of the townhouses that once lined the stretch of 52nd street between 5th and 6th avenues known as Speakeasy Row.

Of course, the Club's connection to some of the 20th Century's most notable dandies has been well-documented, if somewhat forgotten - indeed, the Club's Bar Room set the stage for noted sartorialists both real and imagined. Humphrey Bogart, perhaps clad in one of his signature bow ties, proposed to Lauren Bacall in the confines of the dimly lit main room. Gordon Gekko lured Bud Fox into his web over lunch at the famed establishment.



Travel farther still into the bowels of the restaurant and one comes face to face with the murky legacy of one of the city's great jazz-age dandies. Walk through the restaurant's kitchen, head down the stairs to the basement, and stop at the grey brick wall just before the restrooms. Take the long metal wire that hangs from the wall and, if you select the correct slot and insert the wire just so, a locking mechanism will release. Give the wall a good push - and that will need to be some push to move the 2.5 ton door - and you have entered the Club's world-renowned wine cellar. Walk past the shelves of vintage wines and whiskeys and you come to an opening in the wall that leads you to the cellar of the next building. The space beyond has been re-imagined as a private room to entertain large dining groups, but tucked into the far corner of the room is an intricately-carved, ornately-decorated wood booth.



The table and booth were the one-time home away from home for the Night Mayor, Jimmy Walker, so named for his penchant for speak-easy hopping. If the point wasn't suitably made by that nickname, Walker was also called the Late Mayor because he never arrived at City Hall before noon. If Walker's honesty and integrity were called into question during his mayoral tenure, his reputation as one of the more sartorially-inclined Tammany-ites of the Roaring Twenties remains secure almost 100 years later. Nestle into that cozy nook long enough and it really isn't difficult to imagine Gentleman Jim holding court and tossing around his glib one-liners, the picture of elegance as Robert Caro once described him:

"Pinch-waisted, one button suit, slenderest of cravats, a shirt from a collection of hundreds, pearl-grey spats buttoned around silk-hosed ankles, toes of the toothpick shoes peeking out from the spats polished to a gleam. Pixie smile, the 'vivacity of a song-and-dance man,' a charm that made him arrive in the Senate chamber like a glad breeze . . . The Prince Charming of Politics . . . slicing through the ponderous arguments of the ponderous men who sat around him with a wit that flashed like a rapier. Beau James."



Rubenstein's: A NOLA Institution

$
0
0


Rubenstein's, the venerable clothiers located at the intersection of Canal and St. Charles, is situated right at the border of the French and American quarters in New Orleans. Its facade implies an old-world charm, which was tempered somewhat by the rather large billboard announcing the company's role as proud stockists of Brioni clothing.

More Hats from New Orleans - Goorin Bros.

$
0
0



If Meyer the Hatter is old-school New Orleans (you can see my post here), then Goorin Bros. is the trendy little  upstart down the street - in the French Quarter, to be exact. Goorin Bros. has some history of its own, but I believe its a relative newcomer to New Orleans.




A photograph of  Ben Silver, father-in-law of Alfred Goorin, Sr.

Meyer had classic panamas and straw fedoras from some of the more recognizable names, which are more to my liking. But Goorin Bros. had a kaleidoscope of headwear on display. The quality appeared to be decent, and the prices were a fraction of what one would pay for a Borsalino.



All-in-all, a nice-looking shop.



Borsalino: Something Old and Something New

$
0
0



I picked up a Borsalino panama a few months ago from J&J Hatters, and I've finally gotten around to trying it out as temperatures have soared in the last few weeks here in the tri-state area. Its a beautiful hat - the weave is well done, and the light brown ribbon works well with many of the items in my wardrobe. I wore it down to the Armoury the other day, and I got quite a few compliments on my way down there.

This may be specific to J&J Hatters, but I was surprised that such a relatively expensive accessory didn't come with a nice hat box. Perhaps if you purchase a Borsalino directly from the company or another distributor, its packaged differently. When I made the purchase, my lovely panama was neatly wrapped and bundled inside a fairly non-descript white cardboard hat box with handle and J&J Hatters logo affixed to the box cover.



My expectations were probably heightened because I had come across a lovely vintage Borsalino hat box in a thrift shop near 23rd street some time ago. I picked it up for a few dollars because it was quite tantalizing. A box wrapped in black linen with the Borsalino crest and logo embossed in gold across the cover and along the sides. A thick black drawstring keeps the box closed while carrying. When drawn tight, the excess string can be used as a handle. Simple yet elegant.



I assumed that I'd get some variation of that design with my Borsalino purchase, but such was not the case sadly. Fortunately, I can now put my new Borsalino straw in  a vintage Borsalino hat box, the perfect combination of the modern and the vintage.

Stocked and Reloaded: More of The Best Dressed Man In The Room at The Armoury Tribeca

$
0
0

Dan Flores with Jeff Hilliard of the Armoury Tribeca

I have it on good authority that, of all of the amazing titles available on classic men's style at The Armoury's Tribeca location, The Best Dressed Man In The Room is the only book to have flown off the shelves and sold out. Not to worry - the Armoury Tribeca has re-stocked, so if you're in the market for a copy, definitely drop in to 168 Duane Street. While you're there, definitely check out some of the other hard to find items in stock at the moment, from Koji Suzuki shoes to Nackymade sunglasses.

In Praise of The Single-breasted Peaked Lapel Suit

$
0
0

An Uptown Dandy, left, 
in his single-breasted peaked lapel three-piece suit.

Its always interesting to check in at Put This On to see what Jesse, Derek and the crew over there are talking about. Their eBay finds are always a veritable treasure trove, and they always offer insightful and practical advice on what to wear and how to wear it. One of Derek's recent posts focused on the single-breasted peaked lapel suit of Jeff from Louisville (aka The Thrifty Gent). And there are the usual helpful suggestions to ensure that you'll wear it well. And the point about the button stance is a very good one (you can find Derek's post here). 

Jeff, the Thrifty Gent, in his single-breasted peaked lapel suit.

Jeff''s suit actually looks quite similar to my favorite suit, which is also from Ralph Lauren's Purple Label. Of course, if you're going to experiment with the peaked lapel single-breasted, there is something to be said for the classically elegant appearance of the single-breasted peaked lapel suit with a vest. In my opinion, the vest helps to offset the more pronounced lines of the peaked lapel, particularly on the RLPL model with its wider contours.

George Raft, center, in Night After Night, 
in single-breasted peaked lapel three-piece suit.

One final consideration: the single-breasted three-piece suit with peaked lapels was something of a staple during the golden age of men's style. George Raft was one of many adherents to the style, and he wore it to great effect in many films, including the classic Night After Night in 1932. Raft's custom-made version of the three-piece classic provides an example of what Derek refers to as the truncated lapels, because it does feature a button placement that is considerably higher than the actual waistline. But this might have also taken into account the high-backed trousers of the era, which essentially raised the appearance of the waistline to the eye of the casual observer. The combination of vest and high-waisted trouser prevents the unsightly gap of exposed shirt and belt that is prominent today because of the popularity of low-rise trousers and shorter jackets. In any event, Raft's higher arm-hole placement and structured shoulder complete what is an absolutely stunning silhouette. Unfortunately for Raft's, Night After Night featured Mae West's scene-stealing film debut, but thankfully the single-breasted peaked lapel suit is apparently still going strong.

A bit of Savile Row right off Madison Avenue - Logsdail Tailoring

$
0
0

The Logsdail men - Len Sr. and Leonard - 
with their copy of The Best Dressed Man In The Room

This post is a long time coming, but better late than never! A few months ago, I had the pleasure of meeting the Logsdail men - Len Jr. and Sr. They both enjoyed The Best Dressed Man In The Room, so if you happen to drop by their offices anytime soon, you should feel free to peruse their copy for ideas :-) Anyway, the Logsdail work rooms aren't very far from my office, so I dropped by one day at Len Jr.'s invitation.

The book shelf/liquor cabinet at Leonard Logsdail Tailoring.

Not much needs to be said here about Logsdail bespoke offerings that hasn't been said elsewhere by more knowledgeable people than myself. The Logsdail shoulder is a thing of beauty and quite distinct in its shape and structure. If you're unfamiliar with the Logsdail cut, you can view it in all of its cinematic glory in films such as American Gangster, Wall Street 2, and The Wolf of Wall Street, among others.

Plush leather club chairs and  wall full of fabric options -
what more can you ask for?

While the bespoke items are probably out of my price range, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that there are other options available. There is a semi-bespoke Logsdail line that offers several bespoke touches, but perhaps of more interest to gentlemen on a stricter budget will be the offerings available from Len Jr.'s Carnaby Custom label. These days, there are so many different names to describe different levels of tailoring options, but I would probably describe the Carnaby Custom suits as in line with a made-to-measure program that begins at just over $1000. And there are literally dozens of fabric books to choose from - of course, while certain fabrics will add to the cost, you'll be sure to find something to suit your fancy.

More fabrics and tailoring samples.

Both Logsdails certainly know their business, so spending a few minutes with them was quite interesting. They were both quite generous with their time, and were happy to show me a few pieces that were in the process of being completed, and share a few anecdotes about their experiences in the tailoring business. I hope to be able to commission a suit from them in the near future, most likely in the semi-bespoke range, but if that experience turns out to be anything like the short time that I spent in their work space, it will be a truly enlightening and educational experience.


The Curious Case of the Vintage Tie Cloth - Passaggio Cravatte

$
0
0



Admittedly, I have not been on StyleForum in some time, so I was unaware of the ruckus that has been going on concerning Gianni Cerrutti and his bespoke ties made under the Passaggio Cravatte label. For those of you who might not remember, I did an interview with Gianni a while back about the company. He was also kind enough to send a few ties to review (you can find a link to the interview here and the product review here.

The recent criticism seems to center around the claims by Gianni to certain customers that certain silks that were being provided were "vintage" fabrics, apparently meaning that they were at least 20 years old. Many customers relied on those statements when making a purchase, and were primarily interested in particular offerings because of the provenance of certain silks. As a result, these customers were willing to pay the stated price for what they believed were bespoke ties from vintage fabrics.

Without getting too much into the specifics (you can get a summary of the basic claims herehere, and here), I can understand why someone would be annoyed if they were given the impression that the silks were older than they actually are, or if the patterns were done using more recent ink-jet techniques. For me, personally, when I was choosing the silks for the samples, I was less concerned with "vintage" versus "modern" silks  I was actually more interested in the patterns themselves (i.e. which ones caught my eye), as well as seeing in person what Gianni described as the original 7-fold style of tie-making. So the vintage aspect was not that important to me then, although if I recall correctly, both fabrics that I received were described as "vintage." I don't recall asking for clarification as to what that meant specifically.



As I pointed out at the time, the ties were complementary so my aim was to review the ordering process as well as the finished product. Personally, I still think the ties that I received represent wonderful craftsmanship with interesting fabrics.That being said, if someone is purchasing what they have been told is a tie made from "vintage" fabric, it should in fact be made from vintage fabric, regardless of whether that was a minor or major selling point to the customer. When I last checked the relevant threads at the various forums, it seemed that many people were still waiting for Gianni's response  - hopefully, he will respond to these claims and clarify the provenance of the fabrics in question to everyone's satisfaction. I will try to reach out to him in the next few days for clarification on these issues, as well.

Apart from these issues, I thought it might also be helpful to report on how the ties have held up after a few wears. I have probably worn each tie approximately 5-10 times since I received them, and my issues are probably in line with the problems that Simon Crompton described last year (see here). Specifically, the navy grenadine fabric is quite delicate and probably too thin due to the absence of a lining. As a result, the fabric tends to twist after repeated knotting. Of course, I was the one who requested the unlined seven fold structure for that particular fabric, but hopefully these types of issues would be brought to the customer's attention during the formative stages of the tie-making process.

There were other minor issues which, at this price, should be mentioned. The keeper was probably positioned too high on both ties - it didn't interfere with the tie knot, as was Simon's experience, but it was too high to actually keep the thinner end of the tie in place. Also of note was that the tie was essentially open along the back seam. This was helpful in viewing the folds and the inner composition of the tie, but the cloth tended to spread as the tie was knotted. I actually had my mother (a seamstress for the Joffrey Ballet once upon a time) pin the back, which solved that problem easily enough.



Sample Sale featuring G&G, J.Fitzpatrick, & Timothy Everest

$
0
0
Justin Fitzpatrick just posted the news of yet another amazing sample sale across the pond that I'll no doubt be missing out on . . . but if you happen to be in London towards the end of August, this one has promise!

eBay Auctions Ending Today!

$
0
0



Just a heads up for anyone who might be interested in some random items from my eternal closet cleaning! At the moment, I have up for sale a grey Saint Andrews jacket (sz. 44), a vintage striped paisley Abercrombie & Fitch tie (made in England when the company actually sold quality menswear), and a Holland&Holland game bag in a blue wood-grain patterned leather that my wife may have used 4 or 5 times to hunt big game in the urban jungle that is the City of New York.

All have low starting prices and all end this evening!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/dittycom/m.html?item=301267175719&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Discounted RLPL Shirts at Woodbury's Polo Store

$
0
0
 

Its not too often that you can find RLPL's shirts made by Lorenzini reduced from $450 to $29.99, but assuming you can find a pattern that catches your eye, its a great deal! At the moment, the Polo store at Woodbury Commons has a small rack of shirts on super discount. Most of the shirts appear to feature check (perhaps its a window pane?) patterns in black/purple or royal blue/navy blue combinations. Unfortunately, by the time I found about the sale, only the purple/black combinations were left in size 16. I like the pattern, though, and it fills a small niche in the color palette of my shirt collection.


Just an fyi - it seems that the shirts may have originally been sent to the high-end Ralph Lauren store at Woodbury, but they've since been relocated to the big, main Polo store near the entrance to the outlet center.



Happy hunting!

The Rise of the Blank Slates II: Ruminations on the NBA's Style Etiquette Presentation for Rookies

$
0
0

The Best Dressed Player in the NBA - Regis Philbin would certainly approve.


Building upon our previous discussion of the inherent paradox whereby certain individuals who happen to play professional basketball in the NBA apparently also have entire outfits mailed to them by a stylist - certainly no crime in and of itself - something of a conundrum begins to take shape when so-called "men's style" magazines such as Esquire then market said NBA players as so-called "style icons" (you can see our original post on the rise of the blank slates here). Certainly, if you want to consider the stylist an "icon" in that field, have at it. But to say that a grown man who has his clothing packaged and mailed to his home address - bringing new meaning to the term ready-to-wear - is also following in the steps of Cary Grant, Gianni Agnelli, or the Duke of Windsor? It all seems a bit much.

Lest you think I don't find NBA action faaantastic, this seems like a good time to point out that I have found some positive things to write about when it comes to the NBA and the somewhat unique position that its players, coaches, etc. hold in the world of men's style. This past season, Coach Jason Kidd wore Isaia suits to notable effect, and Miami's former Big Three often express a keen sense of appreciation for classic men's style (see here and here). However, it seems that when preparing the next generation of "style icons," the NBA would perhaps do well to consider style etiquette as prescribed by a magazine  with a more timeless ethos when considering what classic style is and can be. In the end, the difference will be a player that still appears well-dressed 5, 10, or even 20 years from now, as opposed to one that will look fashionable but outdated in 6 months time. For simplicity's sake, think of the varying style advice one might receive from The Rake, as opposed to Esquire or GQ.

So, with all of that in mind, a brief review of some of the points made by an NBA fashion consultant, a GQ "executive stylist" and others, as live tweeted by Sarah Lyall of the New York Times.


The Good:

Every NBA gentleman should have a peacoat, a baseball jacket, a raincoat and an overcoat in his closet, apparently.

I'm not sure about the baseball jacket, but a peacoat, a raincoat, and an overcoat is pretty sound advice. Of course, there are probably 8-10 types of coats that could be classified as "overcoats" (polo coat, raglan coat, a chesterfield, etc.), so you'll probably need some follow-up on this one. But its good as far as it goes.


If you can't articulate how you want your clothes to look, cut a picture out of a magazine.

At first, I thought this was setting someone up to walk into a tailor's premises and look like a moron. Or that perhaps this was the type of advice that a female stylist would give, equating an image of a well-dressed man in a magazine with a young lady walking into a hair salon and saying she wants her hair done like Angelina Jolie in a photo from Us Weekly.

However, its  not a terrible idea. And I have heard of people bringing in stills from a film and saying he would like a coat done this way or that. Of course, the key here would be the magazine, wouldn't it? Show up at your tailor's with The Rake or Men's Ex and you're probably in good hands.


Sportspeople should have good relationships with their tailors. 

Another vague piece of "advice" that is true as far as it goes.Of course, everyone should aspire to a good relationship with his/her tailor. However, so much of the other advice offered to these young men seems designed to almost ensure that one does not have much more than a paying relationship as a famous customer with the tailor (ie "No, I'm pretty sure I can wear the black pants with the blue blazer" or "I just want to dress the cargo pants up and I'm good to go" - see below under The Ugly).


"This is extremely important. Every one of you must have a navy suit, must have a black suit, must have a gray suit."

This is actually decent advice. If you're building a wardrobe from the ground up, purchasing suits in staple colors such as gray and navy is a good idea. From there, you can work on pairings accessories such as black or brown shoes, blue or white shirts, ties, etc. As far as the black suit goes, leave that for morticians and the Broadway version of Reservoir Dogs opening at the Roundabout Theatre this fall.


The Just Plain Bad

There are four dress shirts that every gentleman must have in his closet.

Honestly, after a plain white shirt and a plain blue shirt, I have no idea what the other two "must have" shirts would be.


You can wear the navy blazer with the black pants.

I suppose anything is possible but you really shouldn't.


There are many ways of dressing up a cargo pant.

I'd love to hear just one.


It is good to wear an expensive watch. Along the same vein, the GQ editor pointed out that when NBA gentlemen leave the house, they should throw on an expensive watch and maybe a signature fragrance.

Perhaps unsurprisingly considering his newly enriched audience, the GQ man seems to be confusing price with quality (although I really doubt he's actually confused about what he's doing). What is expensive is probably relative, which will be confusing to a young man who up until a few months ago was not a person of means. To that young man, a Donald Trump watch might be considered expensive. As would the vintage 1947 Longines, or the brand new Breitling or Patek Phillippe. Which one is the right one for him? Alas, he'll never know because they're all expensive, so any one will do. Unfortunately for him, he's probably only familiar with the Donald Trump brand.


The Downright Ugly

If you don't say something when someone's pants are hanging off your behind, that person might be the person who ends up robbing and killing you. 

I'm not even sure where to begin with this one. It sounds highly offensive and racist, but hey, maybe that's just me. If the owner who told his goomah to keep the black men she was sleeping with out of his arena was banned for life, I'm not sure what kind of punishment this sort of statement should merit. But then again, if no one batted an eye when the style expert sounded off, then it wasn't offensive.


If you come to an interview with your pants hanging off you behind, you probably won't get a good post-NBA job. 

Ouch. Allen Iverson called and wants his post-playing career opportunities back.


Do not use the same Irish Spring soap under your arms that you use on your face.

I assume the stylist meant to say that you should only use Irish Spring's Aloe Vera version on your face. The original version is just fine for under the arms and private parts.



At one point, GQ's "executive stylist" apparently stated rather definitively that "NBA players are style icons." Perhaps what he meant to say is that some NBA players are aspiring style icons. A certain income does not a style icon make. But the worst part of this mentality is that the players are ultimately being deprived of the enjoyable experience of learning how to dress classically for all occasions. There seems to be a mentality - which is certainly strange to see from a stylist from a magazine like GQ - that putting together an outfit comprised of color and fabric combinations borne from trial and error and experimentation is something to be assigned to an assistant, or to be gleaned from a review of your notes of what GQ's stylist had to say on the subject. That does sound like a terrible way to become acquainted with the nuances of how to dress - I probably wouldn't want to be bothered either.

At another point, Shabazz Napier of the Miami Heat apparently asked, "Do we need to buy lots of stuff or just basic items?" A great question, but one fears that he was given an answer like "just make sure the watch is expensive," or "just make sure that you have a pair of cargo pants and you're all set," or the instance classic, "Just take the pants from the black suit and the jacket from the navy suit and bam." Wouldn't it be more interesting and informative for Mr. Napier to be introduced to different cuts of suits and shirt collars and let him experiment and ultimately decide what works for him? Instead of deciding for him and then shipping the supposedly perfect outfit to him via overnight mail?  The stylist is essentially taking all of the joy out of the process of learning how to dress well, and is probably being compensated very well to do so, with the young man entering into the Faustian bargain of being dressed by another adult at the age of 25 while ironically being labeled a "style icon" by said stylist and his/her marketing partners. The young man may or may not become a style icon, but he may just end up being a young man with a flair for style who doesn't actually need to be dressed by someone else - terrible news, indeed, for the men (and women) behind the supposed new style icons of the NBA.




One Night at Rao's

$
0
0

Into the wee hours at Rao's:
Frank Pellegrino, Frank Schipani, Dan Flores, and Joe Gallo

Having grown up in East Harlem, I'd often heard about Rao's, the almost mythical Italian restaurant at the corner of 114th and Pleasant Avenue, across the street from Benjamin Franklin High School (which later became Manhattan Center). When I played in little league games by the FDR Drive near the back of Jefferson Park, my father and I would often pass the restaurant on our way to Rex' Italian ice shop on 118th street and First Avenue for a cold treat before heading home after a long, hot summer day playing ball. Of course, even back then, everyone talked about Rao's as a great place that you just couldn't get into, no matter how long you waited or how hard you tried. And so the restaurant was always in the back of my mind as something of a mystery that signified the East Harlem of another time and another neighborhood.

So imagine my surprise when I had lunch with Frank Schipani (Frank S. for short), who had just recently reached out to me after having read The Best Dressed Man In The Room. He mentioned in passing that he had actually been introduced to the book one night while dining at Rao's with a large group that included the owner, Frank Pellegrino. Apparently, Mr. Pellegrino had received a copy and (I would hope) enjoyed it as well, and so Frank S. suggested that I drop by some time and introduce myself. A few months later, when I thought that I would be up around that way, I mentioned to Frank S. that I might drop in for a drink if he wanted to join me. He agreed, and so we arranged to meet at the restaurant one night for a drink or two.

I was running late (having stopped at my sister's place to drop off a sweater she'd left at my house) and so I cut through Jefferson Park, which really hadn't changed much since I was a kid, although the pool certainly looked a lot cleaner than I remembered it. I came out of the park at the entrance right across from Rao's, where I found the two Franks sitting at a table outside the restaurant, sipping on white wine and enjoying a a nice breeze from a pleasant summer evening.

This is probably an understatement (and probably not much of a surprise to anyone who knows him) but Frank Pellegrino is one of the nicest people you'll ever meet. If I had only spent an hour and a half sitting outside the restaurant discussing men's clothing and East Harlem with the two Franks and a whiskey sour in hand, it would have been a night to remember. But Frank went out of his way to introduce us to customers and friends as they came and went - you're really made to feel like you've been coming to the place for years, and this was a constant refrain that I heard from people throughout the evening. They come for the atmosphere that Frank has cultivated over many years -the fact that the food is amazing is an added bonus!

After awhile, Frank asked us if we would join him at the bar. We had a few more drinks there and I met a few more people from the neighborhood. Someone mentioned that it was only a matter of time before Frank got up to sing with the customers, which I thought was a joke until he got up and started crooning - he looked like Sinatra working the room at the Sands (I think it was something from Dion & the Belmonts).

A short time later, as I was talking to someone about the old Dee-liteful diner on 116th and First, Frank came by, put his arm around me, and said that he was having a few people at his table for dinner and asked if Frank S. and I would like to join them. Needless to say, it was an offer that I couldn't refuse.

It probably goes without saying, but the dinner was tremendous: Pasta in a white wine sauce with yellow zucchini, eggplant parmesan, sausage and peppers with sauteed chicken, and I washed it all down with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream. Through it all, it felt more like I was having a big family dinner in the cozy dining room of old friends or relatives. Frank was literally passing the food around the table himself and asking what we thought of this or that dish, and whether we wanted a little more of this or whether we'd had a chance to try that. When I wasn't eating everything in sight, I had a chance to talk about the book, which was passed around the table. Everyone seemed to enjoy the photographs and the essays, which is always enjoyable and quite humbling.

All in all, it was a great night filled with good food, wonderful people, and interesting conversation. I'm sorry it took so long to make my way over to Rao's - I hope to return in the near future.

Many thanks to the two Franks - Schipani and Pellegrino - for an altogether unforgettable evening. Their graciousness and generosity is truly heartwarming and genuinely appreciated.







The Little Things In Life

$
0
0



Its funny (or sad) how you rush through life missing the little things that are right in front of you every day. The photograph above, which I believe was taken by Michael Smith, has sat on a wall around the corner from my office for about 5 years. There are many works of art on the walls of the law firm that I work at, but one rarely stops to really get a good look at them. I had seen this photograph before, and it just dawned on me last week that its a picture of Canal Street in New Orleans, which certainly looks a lot different than when I was there in April, but that looks a lot like a portion of the facade of Rubenstein's, the venerable New Orleans men's clothing institution.

Of course, it took me about 6 years to realize that the artwork outside of my last office was an original Andy Warhol, so this counts as progress :-)

I think it was Ferris Bueller who said "Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it. Good words to live by.

The Man in the Baggy Tan Suit

$
0
0



It seems that the leader of the free world has been getting a lot of grief because he chose to wear a tan suit to a press session on foreign policy. The criticisms seem to center on 2 main points: (1) the President wore a whimsical summer outfit to what was a somber session on the very serious current events taking place throughout the world; and (2) the tan suit was actually embarrassingly ill-fitting and poorly tailored.

Most assuredly, there are probably others who can speak to what is appropriate wear for a "serious" policy discussion - many people seem to be of the opinion that the President's normally ill-fitting grey or navy suits would have been more appropriate for the occasion. And that may be true, but the notion that a tan cotton suit is something of a leisure suit or clown outfit is at best a canard and, at worst, a malicious lie.



Certainly, tan cotton or khaki suits of the type that Haspel of New Orleans became famous for during the 20th Century are a warm weather, seasonal option. Of course, this stems from the fact that the cotton is supposed to breathe better in warm weather. It seems odd that of all the people that have chosen to wear a cotton suit in a business setting in order to keep cool during the dog days of summer in the last 75 or years or so, it was the President who was considered to be unprofessional or insufficiently serious.

As to the second point, the suit certainly appears to be rather ill-fitting. When I wake up to Al Roker and Matt Lauer commenting on the shockingly poor fit of the shoulders on your jacket, things are not going well for you, at least from a sartorial standpoint.This, of course, is in line with the rest of the President's business attire, generally speaking. In this instance, I wonder how much of the negative commentary has to do with the distinct drape of the cotton suit. There is generally a stiffness to the fabric so that it does not seem to "adhere" to the shape of the body. Basically, there is a bulbous aspect to a cotton suit that is well-tailored.



In the President's case, if someone were to announce tomorrow that the suit worn by the President to the press briefing was made by Haspel or Joseph A. Banks, would anyone be surprised? The suit has the rather bland, amorphous fit of an off the rack item - the arm-holes of the suit jacket look enormous, in keeping with the one size fits all ethos of ready to wear made for morbidly obese Americans. The fact that the President is rather trim has apparently lead to this sorry state of affairs wherein the President had probably purchased this suit based on tag size rather than actual fit. What we are left with is an unflattering jacket with armholes that are too wide and sleeves and a waist that are probably too long. The tie is too long and incredibly wide and he only seems to want to show some shirt cuff from one of his two sleeves. On the other hand, the President did pair the suit with dark brown wingtips and he also buttoned the appropriate button on his jacket, so there may be hope for him yet :-)
Viewing all 200 articles
Browse latest View live